OldRide Answers Home
Using OldRide Answers
Ask a Question
Browse Questions In:
Other Makes
Classic Trucks
 General Topics
General Questions
Help Identify
Classic Car News
General Restoration
Vehicle Maintenance
Site Suggestions & Comments


Ask a Question in OldRide Answers
Help Enrich the Classic Car Community
Explore Closed Questions and Answers
 Search Questions: 
Turns over but will not start
Good day,
1954 Ford Club Coupe with a 239 CI engine switched over to 12 volts. This car ran before my redo but did not run well. It now turns over but will not start.
No spark from coil to distributor and of course none to plugs.
Electrically I have installed a new dash to engine harness, new ignition switch, coil, points, condenser, distributor cap, starter solenoid and battery,
I changed out condenser thinking it might have shorted out.did the same with the coil.

Presently with switch on there is power to plus side of coil but not to minus side. When removing the coil wire to distributor there is power to the minus side.
I have removed the hi tension lead out of the cap turned the engine over and still no spark. Checked the points and they are opening and closing, braided ground wire in distributor is i=ntact and red power wire is intact also. Every part of my brain tells me condenser is shorting or the coil is open. Can the distributor be contributing to this problem? I was told by a man who retired from Ford Racing that the distributors on the 239 were not the best. He suggested I install a 272 or 292. Is there a difference?
If you can put me in the right direction to getting this sweetheart running I would appreciate it.
posted: July 12, 2012
  Answers (3)
are you using a 12 volt condenser ? 56 to 70 will probably work. with cap off and points open heavy wire out of coil should spark by touching points with a grounding tool [screwdriver ] to dist housing and releasing. check points to make sure not burned if used wrong condenser.
posted:  July 12, 2012
Click to close this picture
Take a volt meter and check that you have about 8 ,volts to the positive side of the coil key on. the neg side of the coil should have power while cranking. Take a test light and put the ground side too ground crank the eng while holding the other end of the test light at the metal in the coil slighty away from the metal inside the coil, do not touch it, you want it to jump spark, if it don't replace coil. If it doe's put the coil wire into the coil, and check for spark coming out of the coil wire while cranking if it don't replace wire. Take the test light and crank eng until the piont's are opened and then touch the test light too the point's if there is spark, than the point are geting fire. You are losing too much voltage to the ingtion system, causing the plug's not too fire. try this
Take the test light and put the negitive side of the test light on the positive side of the battery, crank eng until the points are closed when you touch the other end of the light too the point the test light should light up if the points have a ground. If it does not light than the points have knopw ground. Any time you hook-up a test light in this fasion you touch the pointed end to any ground it will light up. You may need to run grond wire from battery too the bady, and ground wire from eng too body. I thing this is probally your problem. Let me know
posted:  July 15, 2012
Click to close this picture
If it has a remote starter solenoid, start there. Real common on early Fords
posted:  May 16, 2013
Click to close this picture