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Engine in bad shape with patches of rust. How can I remove?
I have several patches of rust on the cylinder walls and I would like to avoid reboring the cylinders, if possible. Is there a rust remover out there which can remove rust without harming the metal or what is the best way to handle this problem? Thanks for your help.
posted: September 17, 2008
  Answers (4)
Lightly hone it w/a light oil (trans fluid works well). If there is not any pitting, you are ok. There may be black spots where the rust was. These will not hurt on an ecomony rebuild. If there are pits, run a penny accros them, if the penny does not hang up, it will be ok.......
posted:  September 17, 2008
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If it is surface rust and the cylinders are not badly worn, you can remove it with a fine grit (400-600) emery cloth or wet/dry abrasive paper, using kerosene as a lubricant and cleaner while sanding. You should do this after you remove the engine if you haven’t already. If you do this without dismantling, you will have to be very careful to keep any of the rust and or grit from running down below into the crankshaft and bearing area.

Consequently, if the rust has penetrated to the point where the surface of the cylinder wall is pitted, or the rust has penetrated into at least a minuscule amount of thickness on the metal surface, you will find it difficult to avoid reboring or reconditioning the cylinders and using oversized pistons and a rust remover will not remove the pits. In this case your will have to rebore or regrind.
posted:  September 17, 2008
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where is the rust the only thing i can tell you is to bring it to a machine shop but if rust is to bad then you mine as well get a new engine
posted:  September 19, 2008
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To me, your first answer is best, if the motor is standard bore now, why not punch it 0.30 over and buy a set of pistons. The bottom line is do what you think needs doing after the involvement of your local machine shop. If you fire it up afterwords and you don't like the way it runs (or smokes) that's a personal problem. Sorry if I'm being mean but, to me, that's the bottom line. Back in the day I put together plenty of small block chevys (for less than $100) that didn't last more than 10 calendar days but did win enough money to result in a a net profit for me. By the time they came apart and trashed the crank or block, some of them were total money losers but, generally speaking, I've never seen a small block chevy that couldn't survive long enough to break even.

posted:  December 10, 2008
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